Let's Talk about How CBD Works in Clean Beauty

CBD is one of the buzziest ingredients in beauty these days, but what does it really mean and how does it work? In our November 11 Instagram Live, Merryfield Clean Council members JOE DICKSON and MIA DAVIS broke it all down for us. Here are some of the excerpts of their conversation...

What is CBD?

CBD stands for cannabidiol, one and it is one of more than 100 cannabinoids which are found naturally in the natural compounds, which are derived from the hemp plant. There are two types of cannabinoids: Endocannabinoids, which occur naturally in our bodies, and phytocannabinoids, which come from plants like cannabis and hemp.

Okay, so what is hemp?

Hemp is a plant that’s been used across the world for centuries as food, supplements,  and medicine and even a fiber source for textiles and rope. The stalks and seeds of the hemp plant contain amino acids, chlorophyll, flavonoids, terpenes and vitamins. The flowers of hemp contain cannabinoids like CBD. 

Is hemp marijuana?

Industrial hemp and marijuana are essentially the same plant but the key difference is the amount of THC and CBD that’s in the plant. Marijuana varieties have higher levels of THC, the compound responsible for its psychoactive properties. Some people think that hemp and marijuana are distant cousins but for the most part there are a lot of different genetics across varieties of the plant. 

What is the difference between CBD and THC? 

CBD and THC are different cannabinoids: THC is largely responsible for getting you high. CBD does not get you high - It does not have what we call psycho-active or psychotropic effects. And when we are talking about CBD in beauty, we are talking about cannabidiol derived from industrial hemp, which means it needs to contain .03% THC or less.

So CBD is different from hemp?

Yes, CBD is not the same thing as hemp or cannabis — it is a compound found within these plants. Also hemp seed oil, a common ingredient in consumer products, does not contain CBD.

When you’re looking at CBD beauty products, you see the phrases like “broad-spectrum” and “full-spectrum” and “isolates.” What do these terms mean?

Full spectrum means that the hemp extract comes from the plant in basically the whole form that the plant made it so there may be some THC but it is present at below .3 percent in the extract. It has CBD, CBG, CBN, tons of other cannabinoids, flavonoids, and terpenes. Broad-spectrum means that for the most part all those cannabinoids are there with the exception of THC and possibly some other cannabinoids and terpenes which get stripped out. An isolate means that the chemical compound has been isolated — or pulled out of — the plant.  CBD is not the only natural compound people isolate; this happens in dietary supplements as well as other beauty products.

What are the specific benefits of using beauty products with CBD?

Hemp extract can work well for human beings because it can interact with our body’s endocannabinoid system, a regulatory system of receptors throughout our body that helps us maintain homeostasis or balance. These receptors are in our spinal cord, our brain, our immune system, our endocrine system and our skin cells, too. Studies have shown that cannabinoids like CBD can interact with the endocannabinoid system, which may help to ease pain and anxiety, and to soothe and balance skin. Although the effects of hemp oil/cannabinoids are actively being researched, studies show that there are cannabinoid receptors in the dermis, and cannabinoids like CBD might play a role in homeostasis. Research also indicates that it can calm the skin and ease symptoms of acne and psoriasis.

What should I look for when buying a beauty product with CBD?

Look for transparency about what exactly is inside a product — how much CBD or hemp oil should be fully disclosed and the type of extract. People have the notion that more is better but it’s really about what works for you. It’s more important to know what the ingredients are and, if possible, the growing practices and how the CBD was extracted. 

What types of extraction methods are?

There are a few types. The only one extraction that I am not a fan of and that’s hydrocarbon extraction, which uses something like butane or propane or even more toxic solvents that are supposedly not left in the extract. If possible, I would avoid it because there are other great methods of extraction that are incredibly effective at giving you the CBD and other cannabinoids that the plant grows. The most natural method is called lipid extraction, where you take the whole plant and put it in a fat and you let it hang out. It’s not that common in beauty because it is not as predictable, and it can be kind of stinky and a little green. Another method — considered the next most natural extraction way to extract the cannabinoid from hemp — is CO2 extraction. Ethanol extraction is also generally recognized as safe.

Will you have any CBD products at Merryfield?

Yes! Prima is now one of our member brands.

Here, a quick list of important terms...

Cannabidiol

Best known as CBD, this compound is derived from the cannabis plant. Studies suggest that it can ease anxiety, inflammation and pain, and it may play a role in protecting the body from oxidative stress. 

Hemp

Hemp is a variety of the cannabis sativa plant and its fibers, which have been used to make fabric. Hemp is now bred with higher amounts of CBD and is legal in more states than marijuana. Slightly confusing fact: CBD derived from hemp and marijuana is identical — but unless the product contains THC, it is not psychoactive.

Psychoactive

If a CBD product contains more than .3 percent of THC, it is considered mind-altering. If you see THC on a label (which is increasingly common in some states), the product will likely have a psychoactive effect (i.e. get you high.

Terpenes

Terpenes are compounds that impart flavor and aroma to cannabis plants. Some common terpenes include limonene, which has a citrus flavor, and myrcene, which smells like clove. Many terpenes are believed to have their own distinct health benefits, and some are thought to enable and/or amplify the benefits of CBD. The synergistic benefit of the cannabinoids, terpenes and other compounds working in concert is called the “entourage effect."

Full Spectrum

Full spectrum refers to a CBD product that contains all elements that are extracted from the plant, including up to .3 percent THC.

Broad Spectrum

Broad spectrum contains every element of the cannabis plant (all terpenes and all cannabinoids) except those that have been specifically stripped out, usually THC.

Isolate

This term means that the product primarily contains CBD that has been isolated from hemp extract; other cannabinoids and phytochemicals are not included in the extract.

Organic

It's important to look for CBD brands that use organically grown hemp because hemp heavily absorbs chemicals present  in its surrounding soil (including heavy metals or pesticides). Organically-grown is also a key label to look for when considering ingredients.

Certificate of Analysis (COA)

All reputable CBD-based products should validate the potency of their product, the levels of THC and the presence of potential contaminants by a credible third-party lab. Some of the best brands (including Prima) share these COAs directly with consumers, often via a scannable QR code on the label.